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It may be cradled in what is thought to be one of the world’s best-preserved erosion calderas, but Murwillumbah in NSW’s Tweed region is no sleepy hollow.
Vibrant art, fine food, and architectural flair are all on show in this town of 10,000 people, which rivals its flashier near-neighbours Byron Bay and the Gold Coast as a creative hub. Add a scenic river, lush agricultural landscapes, and a ring of charming historic villages, and you have the recipe for a perfect regional getaway.
Here’s a checklist of our top ten things to do in Murwillumbah.
1. Gaze in wonder at Wollumbin
Like a sentinel keeping watch over the town, Wollumbin (formerly known as Mount Warning) dominates the landscape around Murwillumbah. The last standing remnant of a massive shield volcano, the sharply edged peak draws your eye with its brooding majesty and (from some angles) uncannily human profile. Wollumbin holds great cultural and spiritual significance for the local Bundjalung people and was declared an Aboriginal Place in 2014. Because of its sacred status, the mountain can’t be climbed by visitors — although you can walk the short Lyrebird Track at its base for a dose of rainforest immersion.
2. Visit Tweed Regional Museum
Titled ‘Land, Life, Culture’, the permanent exhibition at Tweed Regional Museum provides a brilliant introduction to the plants, animals, geology, and human history of the Murwillumbah area. Learn about the ancient Gondwana Rainforest and its extraordinary biodiversity; marvel at beautiful Richmond Birdwing butterflies, with their wingspan of up to 16 centimetres; admire the swirling colours of mineral ‘thunder eggs’ created when molten lava flowed across this land more than 20 million years ago. And that’s just the tip of what awaits you at this exceptional facility.
3. Enjoy the Art Deco streetscape
Murwillumbah boasts a rich array of Art Deco buildings from the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. Outstanding examples are the brashly modernist Regent Cinema (currently closed, but hopefully that will change) and salmon-pink Imperial Hotel, but the town is besprinkled with more modest buildings that display Art Deco’s signature curved walls, geometric decorations, and ziggurat-style silhouettes. You’ll find most of them detailed on the ‘Facade’ self-guided walking tour (pick up a map and brochure from the Visitor Information Centre).
4. Discover M-Arts
A series of renovated shipping containers within a huge Art Deco-fronted warehouse house M-Arts — Murwillumbah’s creative precinct. The post-industrial space is jam-packed with art and photography galleries, makers’ studios, artisan food outlets, and one-of-a-kind retailers. You can stock up on craft supplies, chat to artists in residence, take part in a creative workshop, or invest in a piece of local artwork. With plenty of places to stop for coffee or a meal, this is a beguiling venue that deserves at least an hour or two of your time in Murwillumbah.
5. Savour an exceptional riverside meal
On the subject of a good meal — occupying a fine old Queenslander-style house framed by palm trees and with absolute river frontage is Tweed River House Bistro and Bar, Murwillumbah’s premier fine-dining destination. The Australian Good Food Guide hatted restaurant boasts a rating of ‘Food Quite Out of the Ordinary’ for its marriage of French culinary traditions with super-fresh locally grown ingredients. Dine on the verandah for sublime views of Wollumbin and the Tweed River, or take your meal in the beautifully styled dining room under the most magnificent pressed metal ceilings you may ever see. The look is vintage-tropical, the vibe is one of relaxed elegance, and as for the food — it’s utterly delicious!
6. See the work of an acclaimed Australian artist
The Margaret Olley Art Centre at Tweed Regional Gallery in Murwillumbah celebrates the life (1923-2011) and creative achievement of one of Australia’s great modern artists. In the early 1930s Margaret Olley’s family farmed near the town and she attended a local primary school. Olley went on to pursue a hugely successful artistic career in Australia and Europe. MOAC not only exhibits examples of her beautiful Impressionist-influenced portraits, interiors, and still-life paintings, but it also recreates her colourful home studio — a glorious jumble of textiles, sculptures, plants, and found objects. MOAC is currently campaigning to purchase Ben Quilty’s Archibald Prize-winning portrait of Margaret Olley. You can support the appeal here.
7. Day trip to enchanting villages
Murwillumbah has the good fortune to be surrounded by delightful old settlements known as the rural or hinterland villages. To the west you’ll find Tyalgum, where country cottages have been converted into oh-so-pretty cafes, bars, boutiques, and galleries. There’s also a bookstore, a fairy shop (really!) and a fine garden nursery. Uki, to the south, has a wonderful weekly craft and farmers’ market and is home to a thriving arts community. In the northeast is Tumbulgum — a riverside village with a laidback ambience. Here you can sample local rums at Husk Farm Distillery or find unique holiday accommodation for groups of family or friends at the gorgeous Belle Riverhouse.
8. Try some great cheese
Thanks to the rich volcanic soil of the Tweed Caldera, the lush subtropical landscape around Murwillumbah boasts some of Australia’s greenest pastures. That means well-fed dairy cattle and a thriving cheesemaking industry, which you can sample firsthand at family-owned Tweed Valley Whey Farmhouse Cheeses. Tasting platters of handcrafted cheeses are served al fresco in the heart of the agricultural environment that produced them. Take your cue from the cows and graze to your heart’s content, while sunshine glows golden on emerald fields. Farm-to-plate doesn’t come more immediate, or more satisfying, than this!
9. Shop local
Those who love to shop for independent brands at individually curated stores will adore Murwillumbah. Bolt and Buckle is a standout for its unique men’s gifts and menswear. Lifestyle shop The Foundry is especially good for babies’ and children’s gifts. Chantilly Lace Boutique stocks gorgeous women’s dresses, bags, and jewellery with a boho emphasis, while the huge collection of retro fashion at Scarlett’s Wardrobe is up with the very best of metropolitan vintage retail.
10. Go troppo in a world of fruit
Over 500 fruits from all over the globe grow at Tropical Fruit World — an 80-hectare plantation and agritourism marvel located 20 minutes’ drive east of Murwillumbah. It’s that fertile caldera soil again which, together with the mild and sunny climate, has created ideal conditions for growing everything from avocados to custard apples. Take a tractor tour, do a fruit tasting, learn about bush tucker, or slurp down a fruity gelato; there are so many ways to enjoy this place of true tropical abundance.
For more travel inspiration, visit www.visitthetweed.com.au.
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Do you have any suggestions to add to our list of the best things to do in Murwillumbah? We would love to hear from you. Please leave a comment below.
Additional images: Depositphotos, Bigstock, and Envato
About the writer
Roslyn Jolly is a freelance travel writer whose work has appeared in Escape (News Limited), Mindful Puzzles, Vacations and Travel, and Mindfood. In her former career as an English Literature academic, she studied and taught the work of great travel writers, such as Henry James, Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson, and became fascinated by the history of travel and tourism. Two years at school in Wales and three years at university in England allowed Roslyn to travel extensively in Europe and North America, which she continues to do.
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